The Hills of Athens & Tour [Day 1]
Introductions to the Guide and Group
Our day was going to be a long one. We went off in search of hiking up all the highest peaks of Athens. After a quick cup of coffee, we met with our friends and set off.
Athens in the morning is lovely. The sun lit up the tops of the ancient buildings as we headed up and over the tree lined cobbled path heading towards the acropolis.
First Stop: Areopagus (Mars) Hill
Areopagus (or Mars Hill) sits 377 feet above the city and adjacent to the Acropolis. Once the high court of appeal in ancient Greece – this hill was history with a view. We clamored up the stairway, holding onto the railing the whole way. The rock in Athens is so well traveled it’s SLIPPERY – even when bone dry!
At this viewpoint, Athens just unfolds in sweeping, timeless views. The city stretches in every direction, with the Acropolis and Parthenon rising proudly above the modern streets and distant hills. Steeped in myth as well as history, this rocky outcrop is said to be where Ares, god of war, stood trial before the gods for the killing of Poseidon’s son, Alirrothios, a legend that gave the hill its enduring names.
Next Up, The Hill Of Muses
One of my favorite places in all of Athens was Philopappos Hill (aka Hill of Muses). Tucked above the city, alongside the slopes of the acropolis, we walked along threaded stone-paved and tree shaded paths to lovely vistas, almost forgetting the hustle of Athens. We passed the Prison of Socrates, a somber place indeed with bars set into a dramatic hillside cave.
The cave-like chambers carved into the rock felt stark, and very humbling. It was easy to imagine Socrates here, calmly discussing virtue, justice, and the nature of the soul with his followers, even as his death sentence loomed. True to his teachings, he refused to escape when given the chance, choosing instead to uphold the laws of Athens and accept his fate. Whether or not this site was truly his prison remains debated by historians.
We then walked up Church of Ayios Demetrios Loubardiaris, a gorgeous tiny byzantine chapel with intricate stone work (and blessedly shaded!)
We continued upwards, following a spiraling path as we climbed towards the monument at the top. The path itself was a work of art; the walk was filled with details like semicircular benches (that faced the acropolis of course!) and decorative stone motifs on the steps climbing the hill.
At the top of the hill is a marble funerary monument. Part tomb, part brag, part architectural flex. We took a moment to enjoy the panoramic views of the Acropolis, the city, and the Saronic Gulf (and waited our turn for a group shot in front of the acropolis.)
We headed down the hill, passing the impressive Church of Agia Marina—built on a crazy steep slope. From there, we slipped into a series of skinny streets, each with seemingly impossible angles to navigate. We paused only long enough to fortify ourselves with more coffee and some well-deserved gelato, before it was time to head off for the big hike up Mount Lycabettus (Lykavittos).
Mount Lycabettus
Mount Lycabettus is the highest natural point for city sightseeing topping out at 908 feet and our grand finale of the day. We schlepped across town, then hiked up the stairs of Voulourestiou street, a pedestrian walkway, until we found the actual trail up the hill to the restaurant.
The sky was clear and as we ascended the pine-scented landscape, our views expanded until we eventually had a spectacular view all the way to the sea. Mediterranean scrub plants, green, woody and aromatic grew in patches alongside prickly pears and other cacti I am unfamiliar with.
We stopped at Prasini Tenta, the restaurant near the top, for a rest and libations then carried on to St. George Chapel at the top.
While we had enjoyed the solitude of the entire trail walking up, the top of the hill and church courtyard was surprisingly busy. We soon learned why.
On the opposite side from where we had walked up, there was a funicular that carted folks up the hill to see the views and the church.
For the novelty, (and to give our knees a break) we all decided to pile into the funicular for the ride down. (Wondering what a funicular is? It’s like a cross between an elevator and a train, built specifically to conquer steep hills safely and smoothly.)
We then wandered through the swanky neighborhood of Kolonaki on our way back to our hotel to meet our group and learn more about this adventure we’d signed up for. Showers were in order.
Introductions and Tour Day 1
Wine was poured, introductions were made, and gizmos (aka receivers with wired headphones) were passed out while laughter rang out in the hotel meeting area. We met our group, learning a good percentage of travelers were also from the Pacific Northwest. Our journey was mapped out and this was where we began to learn more about the variety of skills our guide Victor possessed.
We were also given the assignment to find a Buddy. Capital B. This was official business. Victor shared how we’d be doing buddy checks regularly throughout our journey.
A “buddy check” is basically a clever little safety system where we paired up with someone not in our immediate traveling party. The goal? To make sure every single person was accounted for before the bus drove away from a site. Finding our buddy doubled as an icebreaker, (not to mention sped up boarding at key spots!)
Simple. Efficient. Slightly adorable. And on this trip, it worked like a charm – as no one got left behind!
From the lobby, we took a short walk to the “Gods Restaurant” up the street to indulge in a feast of Mediterranean delights: we had our choice of moussaka or lamb, there were spreads for breads, and flaky phyllo with cheese, drizzled in honey and free flowing wine. We finished with a classic dessert, Greek yogurt and honey, delectable!
We were ready to start our Rick Steves adventure in Greece with our new found tour group friends!
