National Gardens

We watched the changing of the guard at the square, then immediately made a brief but necessary off-tour detour to the National Gardens. A little greenery before plunging into the bustle felt like the right call.

Twisty Streets and Texture Overload

From there, we wandered the sharp-cornered, twisty streets of Athens, marveling at the sheer variety of shops – meats, fabrics, honey, fur coats – mixed right in with tourist trinkets (a few of which earned a discreet eye roll).

What stayed with me most were the textures underfoot and all around us. Cobblestones gave way to marble. Patterns shifted. The city felt layered, lived-in, and wonderfully tactile.

We passed landmarks almost offhandedly: the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Annunciation, the statue of Archbishop Damaskinos, and even Hadrian’s Arch – each one woven so seamlessly into daily life it felt less like sightseeing and more like simply moving through history.

Small Churches, Big Impressions

While the Metropolitan Cathedral (Mitropolis) was undeniably impressive, it was the tiny neighboring Church of Agios Eleftherios that completely stole my heart.

This little church, with its tiny back door, is covered in a fascinating series of carved panels – griffins, eagles, floral patterns, sphinxes. Pagan symbolism mingling comfortably with Christian imagery. I found myself circling it more than once, captivated by the layers of history literally carved into the stone. Not to mention the back side of the church was quieter, blessedly shaded, and caught cooling breezes on an otherwise hot afternoon.

Wind Gods

At the Roman Agora, we lingered at the soaring octagonal Tower of the Winds, carved from Pentelic marble and depicting the eight wind gods – the Anemoi. Apparently, each sculpted figure faces the direction from which its wind blows, identified by symbols like Boreas with his seashell trumpet or Zephyros casting flowers. (I asked Google for the details, and read them as I walked as far around the tower as I could. I love this technology feature!)

Ancient mythology meets meteorological function. Casual brilliance.

Anafiotika

Despite all the impressive cathedrals and statues, my favorite part of the day was wandering the narrow, winding corridors of the Anafiotika neighborhood, tucked into the backside of the Acropolis hill.

Whitewashed homes. Blue shutters. Bougainvillea climbing wherever it pleased. Artists, graffiti, local restaurants working with whatever slope the gods gave them. This neighborhood felt like a secret, even though I know darn well it isn’t.

We watched diners enjoying perfectly normal meals while sitting on what felt like a 30-degree incline. Tables somehow managed to remain level(ish), despite diners straddling multiple elevations. The ingenuity was impressive – and mildly hilarious.

We purchased a painting from a local artist working plein air, actively painting the Acropolis columns visible just beyond. The light, the atmosphere, the exact moment – we didn’t hesitate. Some things are meant to come home with you. (Thank goodness for the cheater bag we’d stashed in our luggage!!)

The Felines of Athens

The cats of Athens are everywhere and nowhere at once, draped over marble steps, sunning on café chairs, and slipping through ruins like locals with centuries of tenure. They move through the city with quiet confidence, as much a part of the landscape as the stones themselves. Overall, the felines we came across were well-fed and looked cared for. And there were little cups of fresh water and dishes overfilled with dry cat food sitting out all around town. Athens takes care of its street kitties, and it shows.

A Proper Greek Ending

That evening, we finally connected with Camilla and Allan and raised a glass at the rooftop bar of the Hera Hotel. Our drink of choice: a Mastiha Mojito.

It was the first time I’d heard of Mastiha and the sweet-ish, herbaceousness of this liqueur was a delightful surprise. Describing this unique liqueur is more challenging; Mastiha is a sweet tasting, aromatic Greek spirit made from the resin of mastic trees grown on the island of Chios. The flavor has notes of pine, cedar, and herbs – and it tasted like Greece in cocktail form.

A perfect ending to a very full day.